- better, greater, or otherwise different from what is usual (emphasis mine).
By now, I am pretty confident with what I am going to get from a Special Hobby kit. In this case, as with their Tempest V, “special” means short run. Short run means an interesting and often under represented subject, with engineering that goes from as good as can be expected to sloppy, with detail to match.
Their kits are relatively simple in execution, which is great when one is looking for an escape from Tamiya or more complicated and ambitious builds, as I was. But, while there should be a time cost savings in parts simplicity, there is a time penalty when some things need significantly more attention.
There were three significant issues with this build.
The first is that the kit came with multiple broken parts including, astoundingly, parts of the wing. To compound this issue, I either had to wait on the U.S. distributor of the kit to get replacement parts from the manufacturer, or buy a new kit. I opted to buy a replacement kit and was going to use the replacement parts from the manufacturer to refill the parts in the kit, and then re-sell the unused kit. I’m still waiting on the replacement parts.
The second is the wheel wells. Like the aforementioned Tempest V, Special Hobby has an almost singular ability to make construction of the wheel well as frustrating as possible. It’s the worst combination of bad design and poor parts fit. My solution, after ruining one set of wheel bay inserts, was to simply leave the parts that run along the leading edge of the wing out until the wing was closed, and then trim, sand, file those to fit. Good luck. Also like the Tempest V, this seems like it could be easily remedied with resin replacement wheel bay inserts. Note that the issues with the wheel bay parts also throw off the construction of the little intakes on the leading edge of the wing. Be prepared to play some jazz here.
Third are the instructions. Special Hobby’s instructions are beautiful, but sometimes utter and complete nonsense. There is no guidance I can give here except to read the instructions enough to commit them to memory so you understand what they want you to do, and then disregard all of that using your experience and constant dry fitting to determine the build sequence.
I wish I could say those were all of the problems, but they aren’t. Those are just the problems that are unusually difficult for a build of this scope.
All of that said, this model was a fun and worthwhile departure from the meandering and ambitious P-61A I’ve been building for almost 8 months. And, one of the weaknesses mentioned above, that of the wheel well and landing gear, turns into one of the best aspects of the build (after you’ve pulled all of your hair out getting it together).
Similarly, the cockpit was well detailed out of the box and fun to build, paint and weather. I hand painted the whole thing except for the individual cockpit dial decals. I knew that would be good enough given that I intended on closing the cockpit and a close inspection would be almost impossible. Note here that there is very few in the way of positive location features and good fit/alignment comes from lots of test fitting and patience.
This kit took significantly less time than other builds I have done in this scale, a mere 40 days from start to finish, even with some extra time being spent to work with the problem areas. It’s a good kit of an important subject that builds into an impressive addition to my World War 2 fighter collection.
- IPMS Middle Tennessee
- Bronze Medal – 1/32 and larger allied.
- IPMS Middle Tennessee
Full build log here.
Almost two years ago I traded in 1/48 in favor of the larger scale. My introduction to “man scale” was Tamiya’s 1/32 Corsair, and the following shift from 1/48 was tectonic and total. Tamiya’s Corsair was so good, in fact, that it took several 1/32 kits from manufacturers such as Hasegawa, Trumpeter and Special Hobby to illustrate just how far Tamiya had knocked the Corsair out of the park. It was Mark McGuire on steroids good.
The Tamiya experience was a paradigm shift in my perception of the build experience. It was like methamphetamine. I knew I would always be chasing that high so I had to be judicious with building Tamiya. For that reason, I have been hesitant to revisit any big Tamiya kits for an irrational fear that they really were that good. As such, I would get caught in a loop of only building Tamiya kits, letting the skills honed at the anvil of the likes of Special Hobby atrophy beyond recognition. Well, having built Special Hobby’s 1/32 Tempest Mk V in the livery of Pierre Clostermann’s famous mount, I wanted to have one of his Spitfires as well. Enter the Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk IX.
The bottom line for everything I write below, is that like the second hit of meth, the Spitfire falls marginally but noticeably short of the Corsair. It leaves you satisfied but wanting more. Most notably, between the Corsair and the Spitfire, Tamiya has thrown down the gauntlet to every other manufacturer and will leave you asking why can’t [insert every other manufacturer] mold plastic this cleanly, with so few fit issues.
That said, unlike the Corsair, the Spitfire does have some rather infamous fit issues. The fit of the multi part cowlings around the engine, and the engine sub assembly to the fuselage, leaves something to be desired. This part of the build left me frustrated enough to hit pause on the Spitfire for a few months to let my froth subside and contemplate alternatives. Ultimately I decided to permanently affix three of the four cowlings, hiding a great deal of the work I had invested in Tamiya’s beautifully designed Merlin. The fit of the wing assembly to the bottom of the fuselage needed some relatively minor work to smooth out the transition between the parts. This sort of fit issue is pretty typical when compared to most other kits I’ve built, but stands out against a kit where very little filler was otherwise needed. Beyond that, follow the lengthy instructions and everything essentially falls together.
Of note, there are only a few places where I believe the aftermarket has provided quality additions to this model.
1) As per usual I added HGW fabric belts. The kit belts are photo etch, but the HGW offerings are truly a must have for any build. While the fabric belts take several hours to assemble, I think it’s worth the effort.
2) Tamiya’s tires are molded in rubber. I have never liked this option and opted for a set of resin weighted wheels and tires as provided by Aires. These were flawless, as I have come to expect using them on several other large scale builds.
3) Don’t use Tamiya decals. I’ve learned this lesson over the years and let my experience be your guide. For most of the markings on this kit I used pre-cut masks from various manufacturers. The end result with painting roundels is that even though it takes significantly more time than throwing down decals, it is worth the effort.
4) I used parts from the Aires full cockpit but in hindsight believe this isn’t worth the effort. The Aires cockpit floor required too much effort to fit and was ultimately jettisoned in favor of the kit parts. Tamiya’s cockpit is good enough with the addition of some Eduard photo etch and some placard decals.
5) The Quickboost resin exhausts were a welcome and relatively cheap addition that didn’t require buggering up the weld lines on the kit plastic.
6) I used AM decals to get Clostermann’s LO-D specific markings. These were acquired on a decal sheet from, surprisingly, a French firm with markings specific to Free French Spitfires in 1/32. I highly recommend these decals, if Clostermann or other Free French are your preferred markings for Spitfires. Just plan well ahead as shipping to the US took a couple weeks.
In sum, its a kit worth the money and time. If you don’t have as much of either of those as you’d like, I still say you can get close with the new tool Revell offerings.
Check out the completed build here.
- Chattanooga Model Con
- Gold Medal (10.33/11)
- IPMS Middle Tennessee
- First Place – 1/32 and larger Allied
- Chattanooga Model Con